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THINGS LEFT TO DO:
find an engine, figure out what type of steering we want to use, mach up the motor&trans, tilt steering wheel, dash
and gauges, more body work"fine tune"front disc brakes, and more.
don't forget we have a date to get this project on the road or we have to pay up on the bet/s we made........ what do you
think is going to happen ?
Well, had to get Becky to wire wheel the rear diff. As we are ready to slip it under the old girl and then proceed with
the rest of the drive train.
Here’s a early pick as to what the back end looks like after it was primed and ready to push it out and nose it in
to do the rear. We also scouted around and came across a free tilt wheel for the coupe that came out of an S-10 , looked like
I could make it work and the price was right on. we ain't out of the woods yet, not by a long shot.
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We are now in to the end of the first week on Nov.04 and the push is on. Thinking over the steering for a
while after hanging the engine in the frame rails it appeared that the stock steering box and it’s location was going
to find a new home somewhere else. There is no way I want standard steering nor my hands full of steering wheel. This
car is going to be a pleasure to drive not a exercise machine for the arms. So I figured to go with a R&P it seemed
practical . After looking on line I was scared away with the crazy prices and figured I’ll just have to come up with
my own plan. And I did, I went with a late GM inboard power R&P (rebuild cost 65.00) now the only other thing was to get
the trans mount made and set the engine and trans where we want it to see where we can slip the rack in.
As I recall it was about this time that Becky asked me " don’t you know where you can get on of those plastic motor
and trans like they use on American Hotrod ?" My answer was no, this is what we have and this is what we work with no matter
how many times we have to take it in and out, it’s called the Smith-Barney method. I then explained that as we build
this car I want things to accessible without taking half the car apart like the way the new ones are build, that isn’t
going to fly here. The object of this build is to double check everything 2 or 3 tines for clearance and to make sure it’s
right so we can ride without worry and remove things that may need to be repalced without taring a bunch of things off first.
Dang-it , for got mention that we hooked up with a 350SBC crate engine with loads of other things for 550 bux’s "the
right place at the right time"had to drive an hour to go get it but well worth the trip.
WRONG SHOP FACTOID - Who was it that said "a woman’s work is never none"?
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Hey, all the front parts came in to rebuild the front IFS ! COOL
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DISCLAIMER :
Street Rodding is an enjoyable but serious hobby and like any other hobby safety
is foremost the number one concern. Therefore, since I am not by any means a professional car builder just
a hobbyist, any information contained within these pages are just my opinions design/s and ideas that
worked for me.
Furthermore, I make no claim/s as to the accuracy of the information and/or procedures used herein
, nor will I accept responsibly and/or any liability/s for the use or abuse should any of the said information used by any
party/s should cause injury. Always consult your local and state safety laws and regulations !
Any person/s whom may nominate to use, build and/or copy the method/s in this site would be doing so at his or her/s own risk .
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